Sanibona Baker Man

Seans sonrası rahatlığı ve bırakmışlığı.

Oh.

Gevşeyelim.

Kendinden rahat Danimarkalı bir grup eşlik edecek bize bu akşam.

Laid Back.

Adı üstünde.

‘Baker man is baking bread’ diyecek.

Bu son derece ‘kiç’ sözleri olan parçaysa bugün bizim evde ayrı bir anlam bulacak.

Niye mi?

Bugün benim Bey’in Singapur’dan sipariş ettiği bir ekmek hamur kalıbı Bannetons postayla geldi. Tipini pek beğendim, hemen Instagram’ladım. Sonra bir baktım bizim ‘Baker man is baking bread!’

Ahanda cuk.

Daha bitmedi.

Parçayı dinlemeye devam ederken bir baktım ‘Sagabona, kunjani wena’ diyor. Kulağım bir aşina. Güney Afrika’ya gittiğimizde Zulu dilinde öğrendiğim Sanibona (Merhaba) ve Siyabonga’yı (Teşekkürler) hatırlatıyor. Google diyor ki bu zaten Zulu. Merhaba, naber? diyormuş Laid Back adama.

O zaman bir ithaf da sevgili Güney Afrika, Kwa-Zulu Natal’a.

Üstelik parçanın 1990’larda Lars Von Trier tarafından çekilen ‘über-kiç’ klibini de es geçmeyelim. Hangi fırıncı neden ekmek yapıyor, bu insanlar neden uçuyorlar, niye Zulu dilinde merhaba naberleşiyoruz bilmiyorum. Bugün Ay İkizler’de, ama ben bilmemeyi seçiyorum. Tatlı tatlı sağa sola salınmak yetiyor.

O zaman ne diyoruz?

The night train is coming

Got to keep on running.

Sagabona, kunjani wena?

Take it easy and enjoy!

The ‘Cape’abilities of Africa – Final Episode

Coming to the last two days of our trip in South Africa, we’ve almost reached the end. Still, we’ve got some good wine to taste, good food to swallow, all mwah mwah mwah!

Day 14

Today, we’re visiting the vinyards and doing wine tasting. Yey!

There are several wine routes you can choose from. We decide to stick to Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. And in between, we’ll stop by Boschendal.

Having had a detailed look at the wine route booklet we grabbed from the Info Center, we make a list of vinyards we want to visit. Off we start.

First Tokara Wine Estate in Stellenbosch.

We love the neatly planted trees and the full, purple grapes clinging from the branches. I especially want to taste a single Shiraz grape, one of my favorites, but I have to settle with just taking a photo. It’s still early in the morning to do the tasting but we can have a look at the barrels behind the windows. Looks quite prestigious and professional. Before we leave, we see the wine art hanging on the walls. Beautiful portraits of local women drawn with Tokara red wine. Unfortunately they’re not for sale. We sigh and move on to the next vinyard on our route.

Boschendal.

This is a quite big and touristic facility where there’s wine tasting for crowded groups. Hmm, not our taste really. But once we see the beautiful gardens, beautiful flowers, trees all around, and also the lovely old mansion turned into a museum, we go ‘OK let’s have a look’.

First we visit the mansion. It definitely utters the words of a history close by. I don’t know why but I was especially touched by the bedroom. This was a young couple’s room. There was a small crib and a china tub for a little baby. Felt out of an old movie.


Then we wanted to give the tasting a try. We were seated outside in the garden, the irrigation and water jets worked continuously spraying the garden with water in a harmonious chorus.

We made our preferences from the wine list and selected several red, white and rose wine. All came simultaneously served with a glass of water to change the taste in your mouth after taking a sip from each one. The tasting was OK, pas mal, but we didn’t find any of them worth buying and carrying back home, so skipped the shopping part.

Yes, I repeat, Boschendal is the definition of a typical ‘touristic’ wine tasting experience with the tour buses arriving one after another with scheduled reservations, but still is worth a try.

We cut it short, and off we drive to Franschhoek where we have reservations for lunch.

La Petite Ferme.

This is one of the few locations we definitely wanted to visit, both for the wine tasting and the awarded cuisine. We have a table with a view looking down to the valley and the vinyard.

Beautiful.

The place is run by a family for 2 generations. The wine, the cuisine, the atmosphere, the service – everything’s just excellent. The owner of the restaurant welcomes his customers personally, greeting at the entrance and later visiting the tables asking everyone if everything’s OK. Very welcoming, sincere and hospitable attitude, with prestigious, exquisite food and service. This is far most the best food we had in South Africa. A definite reccomendation.

If you’re curious on what we ordered (and yes, I have proof!), I had duck prosciutto followed with risotto of the day. My husband had rabbit savoring every piece of meat on those ribs! All were yummy, totally! And a bottle of Fume Blanc accompanied these fabulous food.

We stopped by the wine cellar before we left and bought a bottle of Fume Blanc and a Shiraz. (All turned out great by the way) We also bought the cookbook of La Petite Ferme. Though we didn’t try it here, there’s even malva pudding recipe. A must try at home!

Our final destination was a difficult-to-spell-and-pronounce wine estate.

Boekenhoutskloof.

This is another special and boutique place. It feels more like you’re at a residential property than a commercial one. There’s life here with several houses and half naked kids running around. I saw a great Weimaraner that just passed us by and wanted to have one. (This is before Coffee of course)

We feel like settling and living here.

Oh, and the wine tasting?

We liked their Shiraz but it was out of stock.

Shame.

We left empty handed looking back at the kids and the dog.

On our way back, we stopped by Franschhoek checking some art galleries and having a glimpse at the city. The architecture and way of living is similar to Stellenbosch, we liked it. We hear there’s competition between cities for the vinyards they have and wine they produce. Well, Franschhoek definitely wants his label on top of the mountains, don’t you think?

We end the day in Stellenbosch with a bloody mary in java Cafe.

This is our last night.

15 days blew away, just like that.

Yet, it was a beautiful day, a beautiful end.

Day 15

Final shoppings before check out.

A Cederberg Shiraz from Wijnhuis.

A rutile ring from Traumerei. (Yes, I got my semi-precious stone ornament!)

A 6-pack Savannah Dry cider for Cape lovers in the family.

A white Merlot from Zandberg in Helderberg Wine Route.

And off we’re on N2 driving towards the airport, passing by the ghetto districts.

End of 17 days together with the flights.

End of an unforgettable experience.

End of part II.

We’re coming home.

The ‘Cape’abilities of Africa – Vol V

Day 13

Hi.

Yes, I’m alive and feeling better, thanks.

But still, I’ll take one step at a time in terms of food and drinks for the day.

Today, we’re leaving Hermanus. As if they feel our departure, the whales are drawing really close to the shore. We’re saying good-bye to each other. Quite a scene.

And off we hit the road to Stellenbosch.

This is a real young and ‘sympa‘ city. There are a few streets intersecting each other with nice, cool cafes and restaurants. It’s quiet and peaceful in general. The architecture style is colonial with one or two storey high buildings. The city’s green. We see beautiful flowers and trees all around.


There’s a culinary arts institute at the city and it feels like you’re wandering through a university campus. Having said that, we came across a restaurant where the faculty students cook and serve called the Apprentice @ Institute of Culinary Arts. As I was poisoned the previous day, I’d better keep it simple. I had a plain spaghetti with no dressing, nothing. Nevertheless, the plate was served with some cooked, sliced, sweet cherry tomatoes and a leaf of fresh basil. Simple and neat presentation with tasty al dente pasta. Just what I needed.

We walked around the city, had some cider, Savannah Dry at Java Cafe, but saved the best for last.

Dinner.

Our choice was Wijnhuis, meaning Wine House. We sat outside at the terrace under the beautiful sky, had good food, pleasant service. It was definitely fine dining. I don’t quite remember what we had, red meat for sure, but the part to remember was the wine. It was a silver medal Cederberg Shiraz. The best we had so far. And not so pricy after all. Though I loved the smell and the taste every bit of the way, I couldn’t risk to have more than one glass, my stomach still felt unstable. So, it was a must to grab a bottle to take back home before we left.

Tomorrow is the big day. We’ll do the wine route – wohhow!

We did our homework and want to check out several vinyards in Stellenbosch and Franschhoek.

The most exciting part will be the lunch in La Petite Ferme.

The food, the wine, the location.

Can’t wait.

TBC

The ‘Cape’abilities of Africa – Vol IV

Hey!

It’s been a while I wrote about the rest of our long trip to South Africa.

I felt if I don’t wrap it up now, I never will.

So apologies for the delay, and here we go again!

If you want to have a look on where we were, here’s my last and first posts.

Day 12

Good morning Hermanus! How are you today?

In the morning, we took a walk along the shore to see some biggies and do some southern right whale watching. Well, the whales were definitely around, hunting and feeding, but not so close by today.

We decided to explore the open market , fancy little stores, and art galleries around town center. I was suggested to grab some semi precious stones, especially from those that would go well with my sign – oh, there were many! But I couldn’t really find what I was looking for. At least not yet.

We loved the small wooden spoons, beaded carafe veils and got some souvenirs both for ourselves and the ladies in the family.

Needing to catch our breath under the hot sun, we cooled off at Burgundy’s under the big tree on the terrace for a cup of coffee.

Continuing with our souvenir shopping, we then discovered this cosy, artisan ceramics shop called Pure South and bought some local design ceramics. And not only. We also found ourselves buying another wooden arts and crafts – this time 3 wooden fish hand made by local Pundu’s from Eastern Cape area. We were told by the shop owner that buying this piece of art encourages and helps the locals to continue producing their art both financially and artistically. A mutual satisfaction for both sides.

Having completed the small city tour, it was time for a late afternoon treat – seafood at Bientang’s Cave. We had heard and read about this restaurant before making it to ZA. The restaurant is located outside on the slope of a hill, reaching down to the shore. Of course, you can both dine and watch the whales since you’re right on the shore. A double treat.

We ordered a bottle of cool Sauvignon Blanc along with snails, mussels and oysters. Yummy! They were soo delicious, I just couldn’t get enough. So what did I do? I couldn’t help but even suck the oil the snails were served with! Uhh, you fool.

We ended our late lunch with the fabulous Malva pudding. This dessert is just to die for. And I think here we had one of the best. We’ll definitely try making this when we get back home. A must try!

Exhausted, we headed back to the hotel and dived into a short sleep before dinner. In half an hour I started feeling sick. Uh-huh. I knew this feeling.

Had I told you that I had gotten poisoned by seafood before? Actually 3 times? (And all in Paris?)

Well, I know that over-consumption of (raw) seafood can sometimes be too much for my ‘sensitive’ stomach, but it hadn’t let me down since a couple of years. I should have known it would strike back!

Yes, unfortunately I started to vomit, one after another. In our last visit to Paris, my husband and I had been food poisoned together. We were so out of energy that we just couldn’t get out of bed for a day then. So when this nonstop vicious circle began, my husband was like ‘let’s go to a hospital before it hits me, too, otherwise we’ll end up like we were in Paris!’

He was right. First we tried the state hospital and saw there was a cue at night! We asked for a private practice around, and were we lucky, there was one close by.

I was the first martyr to check in to the clinic from Bientang’s Cave that night. I spent another half an hour vomiting again and again. After observing and diagnosing my symptoms fully, (and seeing my frustration) I was given serum for 1.5 hours. Finally, that nausea stopped and I could fall asleep.

Meanwhile, a German couple checked in to the Emergency just like we did. The girl was in bad shape, worse than I was. She was both vomiting and had diarrhea. We learned that they had the same seafood platter with snails in Bientang’s Cave, too. The nurse at the clinic called the restaurant to report the ‘casualties’ and but got a voice mail. In any case, she left a message saying people got food poisoned and they’d better check what was wrong.

Luckily, my husband (and also the German guy) were healthy and in shape. Yes, I sometimes envy the male metabolism! Well, maybe. Only in these cases!

Our plans to spend our last night in Hermanus by throwing some more couple of Jack’s had fallen to the ground, but at least I was back on my feet after midnight, and could make it to the hotel for a good nights sleep.

I prayed to recover fully the next day since we were heading towards Stellenbosch for some incredible wine tasting. I didn’t want to miss neither a single drop nor a bite!

TBC

The ‘Cape’abilities of Africa – Vol III

Day 11

Today we’re leaving Cape Town and passing onto Hermanus for southern right whale watching. Another opportunity to see some biggies. Jupiter is certainly with us. What more could I ever want?

But first, we’ll do the bays and beaches.

We head directly to Cliftons Bay, and then respectively to Camps Bay, Hout Bay, Chapmans Peak, NoordHoek. The bays are a scenery with high rising mountains behind and the ocean beating the rocks right in front.

Now, one by one.

Cliftons Bay.

Nice. Been there. Done that. That’s all.

Next.

Hout Bay.

Looks like a fisherman’s town on the shore, but then we realize the residential settlement is kind of inward, towards the skirts of the mountains. Looks like a green, mountainous suburban district. Thought balloon: I think we could live here. (We like considering the idea whether we could settle at a place we travel if we enjoy the atmosphere there that much)

Chapmans Peak.

Great view. An amazing scenic lookout. Gives a great panoramic picture, whether you have such a camera or not. No words to describe it. This spot was one of the waypoints I definitely wanted to see in our trip. Unfortunately the weather was still cloudy, grey and very windy. Yet, was still worth it.

Camps Bay.

Very LA or Miami Ocean Drive kind of look and feel. There’s a ‘dolce vita’ mood all around with the fancy cars driving along the shore, girls sashaying with their booties, sun shades, LV bags, and pumped up, cardio-gym-type guys with their tight t-shirts hanging around the cafes and all. There’s a show off going around, looks posh, sweet and light. The beach is fine white sand and the ocean’s just brrrrrr – ice cold! We stop by at Cafe Caprice and order the famous mo-ji-to! Yumm. Of course, we run into some of our own. Wherever there’s dolce vita, there are Turks right on spot.

Heading to Hermanus from the highway, we get stuck in Friday traffic. We literally turn off the engine. And it’s only 4 pm. Do people stop working in the afternoon here? We wonder.


We reach Hermanus around the evening. And just as soon, we see the whales turning and whirling on the shore right by our hotel. Am-ma-zinng!

Our hotel is by the street that stretches along the shore. Sitting at the balcony and drinking our happy-hour beer, we can watch the whales move at a slow pace, splashing water, diving, turning their back and showing their tummy. Oh yes, we’re all good.

Hermanus has a small center. Walking around the square and the streets behind it almost does the central tour. Feeling hungry, we’re attracted to the aura of Fisherman’s Cottage from outside with its small, cosy atmosphere, candle lit tables. C’est tres sympa! We have good fish, good wine and a ‘killer’ malva pudding. Malva pudding is to be noted as a local dessert, especially served with vanilla ice cream. I’ll come back to this later on.

We end the day at Tapas Food & Wine Bar. There’s live music by a boys-band-look-alike group, but they’re cool. We roll the Jacks once, then once again. I stop, my husband orders another. -and for how much? Just nothing. This is certainly the cheapest destination I had Jack Daniel’s at.

And not only.

TBC